JCPC 153 Beth Rodden

Photo Corey Rich

Climbing royalty. Beth Rodden’s impact on climbing from the late 90s to the late 00s was huge. She pushed forward female standards in sport and trad, did early free ascents on El Cap, and established a crack testpiece where ascents still make the news.

Injuries led to a stepping back, motherhood followed and she has now written her autobiography, A Light Through the Cracks.

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Cheers all,

Niall

JCC 151 Andrew Bisharat

Photo: Drew Smith

Writer and podcaster Andrew Bisharat looks back on a life in journalism, creativity, climbing, being mbbed and his involvement in the Palestine-based film, Resistance Climbing.

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Cheers all,

Niall

JCPC 150 Jerry Moffatt Revelations

On the 15th anniversary of Jerry Moffatt Revelations, for which I was ghost writer, I read some sections, remember the creation and listen to some recordings.

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Cheers all,

Niall


JCPC 149 Mari Salvesen

Norweigan trad beast, crack shuffler and professional amateur Mari talks Troll Wall, local clubs, El Cap and always looking forward.

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Niall

JCPC 147 Alex, Billy, The Nose

Comp climbing retirees Alex Waterhouse and Billy Ridal set the ridiculous goal of free climbing The Nose of El Cap, the greatest trad climb on earth. Hear their crazy story. The story comes in two parts.

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Cheers all,

Niall


JCPC 146 Alistair Lee

Al Lee’s films have documented UK trad climbing and climbers for over a decade. Movies such as On Sight, Climbing Blind, Blocheads and The Prophet have made the screen shine. This week let’s hear Al’s crack.

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Cheers all,

Niall

JCPC 145 The Jam Crack Christmas Disco

photo Ray Wood

Your annual sermon from the disco pulpit where the Jesus of beats and the Devil of groove battle it out in an epic damce to the death. Hot dog! Love's a-winnin!

Mighty crack. Support the podcast on Patreon here.

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Cheers all,

Niall

JCPC 144 Zoe Wood

Photo Ray Wood

23-year-old Zoe was born into climbing in the hills and homes of North Wales where the slopes of Eryri turn their eyes towards the sea, This world was sketched in a recent film, Adra, which captured too her love for her home. Hear about it and her current career as a routesetter and a move to Sheffield. Many Cackles are had.

Mighty crack. Support the podcast on Patreon here.

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Cheers all,

Niall

JCPC 143 Leo Houlding part 2

Photo: Dean Fidelman

In part 2 we hear about Leo’s attempt to push standards and adventure on El Cap, breathtaking stories of wingsuit flying, racing Jeremy Clarkson, then taking his skills to the arctic wilderness and finally bringing it closer to home.

Mighty crack. Support the podcast on Patreon here.

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Cheers all,

Niall

JCPC 142 Leo Houlding part 1

Photo: Dean Fidelman

Leo is one of the finest and boldest rock climbers Britain has produced. In this first of a two-part interview we follow his journey from early Gritstone and wild Welsh forays onto the huge canvas of Yosemite’s El Capitan. Stunning.

Mighty crack. Support the podcast on Patreon here.

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Cheers all,

Niall

JCPC 141 Chris Bonington

Photo Chris Bonington Picture Library

Chris Bonington’s name is synonymous with high altitude mountaineering the world over and he led the charge into the extreme during the sport’s most ambitious years. Alongside a successful and visionary career in the Himalayan giants from the 1960s through to the 1980s, CB communicated our sport to the armchair audience via his books and presentations. Hear all about his highlife.

Mighty crack. Support the podcast on Patreon here.

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Cheers all,

Niall

JCPC 140 Russ Clune

Russ Clune has been more places, met more people and climbed more climbs than most of us put together. Hear this Gunks legend tell us about decades of climbing fun around the world, how things used to be and how things have changed. Old school guaranteed!

Hear about early Gunks climbs; travelling in the 1980s to the UK, West Germany, Czechoslovakia, Russia and East Germany; visiting Korea; times and climbs with Wolfgang Güllich; working with Black Diamond.

Mighty crack. Support the podcast on Patreon here.

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Cheers all,

Niall

JCPC 139 Anna Hazelnutt

YouTuber, influencer and all-time trad slab moose Anna Hazelnutt takes us behind the scenes of video creation and climbing-wall superstardom. Legend.

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Cheers all,

Niall

JCPC 137 Didier Berthod

Who can forget Didier Berthod from his attempts on Cobra Crack in 2007's smash video, First Ascent. The Swiss-born crack maestro's life sure has taken some turns. Find out all.

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Cheers all,

Niall

JCPC 136 Burgess Book of Lies

Al Burgess reads wild stories of 1980s alpinism and all that that world entailed - fighting for your life and passing into death.

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Niall

JCPC 135 Ruby Petch

Adventure boulderer Ruby Petch is one of the driving forces of the development of North Devon. By hiking pads, figuring tides, checking coves and sniffing out nooks Ruby and her small band of pad pirates have carried the proud Devon torch into new areas.

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Cheers all,

Niall


JCPC 134 Adam Ondra

© Adam Ondra, Author: Petr Chodura

The world's best climber? Hell yeah! Adam Ondra gives us a tale of childhood, grades, Dawn Wall, comps and choss. Get in!

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Cheers all,

Niall

JCPC 133 Dean Fidelman Part 2

This is part 2 of the Dean Fidelman interview. In this show we talk about the Stonemasters’ reincarnation the Stone Monkeys who brought their heart and soul to the walls of Yosemite in the 1990s. We focus particularly on Dean Potter.

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Cheers all,

Niall

JCPC 132 Dean Fidelman Part 1

Dean Fidelman’s photographs captured the wild characters of the Stonemasters as they revolutionized the climbing of Southern California in the 1970s. John Long, John Bacher, Lynn Hill, John Yablonski and Dale Bard all sparkle in his stunning black and white images. Hear all about it in part 1 of Dean’s interview.

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Cheers all,

Niall