JCPC 187 Siebe Vanhee -- Pembroke Rampage

Photo: Alfie Reed

This summer, globtrotting Belgian trad beast Siebe Vanhee came to Pembroke, the UK's favourite holiday climbing destination. He had an amazing fortnight of flashes and on sights, culminating in the first flashed ascent of Muy Caliente, E9 6c. Let's hear all about it.

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

If you are a fan of Jam Crack and would like to support the podcast then do so on Patreon here.

Niall x

JCPC 185 John Dunne

Here’s a true heavyweight of the 80s and 90s sport and trad world. John Dunne punched out top level sport routes at Malham and a series of trad routes that are still the country’s finest ticks. He ruffled feathers along the way. Let’s hear his crack.

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

If you are a fan of Jam Crack and would like to support the podcast then do so on Patreon here.

Niall x

Part one

Part two

JCPC 184 Lincoln Knowles

Lincoln Knowles has ruined climbing. The 21-year-old US-based TikTokker, YouTuber, FreeSoloist and RageBaiter, tells us all about his funny videos where he annoys the shit out of people. Let’s hear his crack.

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

If you are a fan of Jam Crack and would like to support the podcast then do so on Patreon here.

Niall x

JCPC 183 Oliver Trippett - Hard Aid on El Cap

El Cap is still the crucible of hard aid climbing, where devotees come to test themselves and learn. Oliver Trippett is one such disciple and he tells us of this vertical world.

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

If you are a fan of Jam Crack and would like to support the podcast then do so on Patreon here.

Niall x

JCPC 182 Jason Kehl

photo: @dawnkishphoto

Artist, developer, shaper, traveller and all round baller, Jason Kehl, AKA Cryptochild, tells us about his quirks and works and his love of developing beautiful boulder problems in the American desert..

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

If you are a fan of Jam Crack and would like to support the podcast then do so on Patreon here.

Niall x

JCPC 181 Milena Mühlen

Image: Charlie Low

Good friend of the show Milena Mühlen reads a self-penned story, Climbing and Womanhood, telling of a recent experience.

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

If you are a fan of Jam Crack and would like to support the podcast then do so on Patreon here.

Niall x

JCPC 178 Talking Crap with Matt Sparksy

Endless shit talking. Young Matt makes me listen to his opinions on all aspects of modern climbing. Funniest ever, swear to god!

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

If you are a fan of Jam Crack and would like to support the podcast then do so on Patreon here.

Niall x

JCPC 177 Ricky Bell

Ricky Bell swept his paintbrush of adventure over Irish trad climbing to create so many beautiful leads of the highest quality in the Mournes, Burren and Fair Head. He also added so many centrecourt problems to the Fair Head boulders. His videos touched and inspired people around the world. He’s the Celtic soul brither. As Sophie l said about this interview, “Loved it! Don't know Ricky personally, yet somehow "warm and fuzzy" was the predominant feeling.”

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

If you are a fan of Jam Crack and would like to support the podcast then do so on Patreon here.

Niall x

JCPC 176 Chris Schulte Patience

Photo: Stefan Kürzi

Chris is the defininig voice and spirit of Jam Crack. He's back again with another reading, this time his own story, Patience. It's all about trying to be a climber and a person in the world. Beautiful.

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

If you are a fan of Jam Crack and would like to support the podcast then do so on Patreon here.

Niall x

JCPC 174 Steph Davis

This star of US adventure climbing shone brightly in the early 2000s with big free ascents on El Cap at a time when few ventured there without aid. Big solos, desert sandstone crack testpieces, expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, Baffin and Paragonia, amongst others, made her one of the most experienced adventureclimbers of her day. Later years saw the adventures continue with the embracing of base jumping and wingsuit flying.

Beyond all these has  lain a thoughtful and considered approach, always ready to self check and ask twice. Skills that surely came to the fore during tough times around loss of sponsorship and latterly, personal tragedy. 

Steph lays it all out with a thousand laughs along the way.  Such fun, so honest. Check this two-part interview. 

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

If you are a fan of Jam Crack and would like to support the podcast then do so on Patreon here.

Niall x

JCPC 173 Donegal Stories

To celebrate St Patrick’s Day, Niall Grimes reads out some stories based in his favourite part of Ireland, Donegal. Also featuring Mary Shiels’ poetry and Brian Callan’s medley.

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

If you are a fan of Jam Crack and would like to support the podcast then do so on Patreon here.

Niall x

JCPC 172 Magnus Midtbø

With well over two millions subscibers to his YouTube channel, Magnus Midtbø is one of the most famous climbers in the world. But what lies behind this Norwegian tough guy. Magnus joined Jam Crack in a live event at the KMF to find out.

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

If you are a fan of Jam Crack and would like to support the podcast then do so on Patreon here.

Niall x


JCPC 171 Rob Matheson

Lifer, and then some! Lakes legend Rob Matheson was at the forefront of Lake District standards since the 1970s, rarely taking his foot off the gas of hard trad climbing. Skill, boldness and passion took him up the area’s classics. His fire burns just as bright today as he aims himself towards one of the UK’s most terrifying E7s. Hear his crack!

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

If you are a fan of Jam Crack and would like to support the podcast then do so on Patreon here.

Niall x

JCPC 170 Xian Goh

Photo: Alex McArthur

Professional climbing coach Xian Goh has spent years observing climbers climb and has converted her knowledge into a book on climbing movement called Smooth. What a cool idea. Let’s hearall about it.

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

If you are a fan of Jam Crack and would like to support the podcast then do so on Patreon here.

Niall x


JCPC 169 Alex Huber - part 3

Foto Jan Vincent Kleine

He’s back! He’s had his dinner, he’s chatted with the Mexicans and now Alex Huber is back for the third and best Jam Crack. This is amazing. Talks about Latok 2, Choktoi Ri, Free Rider, Salathe, Zodiac Free, soloing Free Rider, soloing Hasse Brandler and loads more. So beautiful.

Part 1 here, part 2 here.

Niall x

Support the podcast on Patreon here.

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

JCPC 167 Julian Lines

photo Paul Higginson

Pure soul. Julian is one of the UK’s most extraordinary climbers, a stoic toejammer, a ramrod individualist, an aesthetic ascetic. Film star, prize-winning author, hermit. Get in!

Niall x

Support the podcast on Patreon here.

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.



JCPC 165 Zoe Peetermans

What a cackle as we sit down in Unit E with Zoe Peetermans. She’s reigning British Bouldering Champ and British Lead vice champ. She’s a star and a great cat. Hear the passion, intellegence and personality burn through in this chat.

In part one (ep 164) in introduce the show but mostly chat shit. As well as that there are some wonderful haikus from Anesu and Mike.

In part two (ep 165) it’s all about Zoe. Takes your picks

Niall x

Support the podcast on Patreon here.

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

JCPC 163 Rick Accomazzo talks Tobin Sorenson

Tobin Sorenson was one of America's boldest and most gifted climbers of the 1970s. Tobin's friend Rick Accomazzo comes on the show to tell us about Tobin and why he chose to write a book about him.

Support the podcast on Patreon here.

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

Cheers all,

Niall

JCPC 162 Siara Fabbri

With her ascent of New Base Line, Siara Fabbri joined the world elite of women climbing 8B+. A huge achievement for someone who started climbing at 21 and who works full time in cutting edge science. Antimatter, anyone?

Support the podcast on Patreon here.

Listen via the player below. Better still, go via Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Amazon Music. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

Cheers all,

Niall