JCPC 070 Emma Twyford Part 2

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Here we go with Part 2 of the Emma Twyford chat. Emma is one of the UK's top climbers. Over the last year she has had an amazing run of achievements on top level sport and trad climbs. In this interview she chats with Niall Grimes about her journey on E8 and E9 trad climbs and 8c and 9a sport climbs.

In this part we talk Indian Face (E9, Cloggy), The Big Issue (E9, Pembroke) and The Big Bang (9a, Pen Trwyn).

It's a long chat so I've split it in two. Part 1 can be found here

Listen via the player below. Better again go via iTunes, or to Stitcher Radio, or on Spotify. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

Cheers all,

Niall x.

JCPC 069 Emma Twyford Part 1

Photo: John Bunny

Photo: John Bunny

Emma Twyford is one of the UK's top climbers. Over the last year she has had an amazing run of achievements on top level sport and trad climbs. In this interview she chats with Niall Grimes about her journey on E8 and E9 trad climbs and 8c and 9a sport climbs.

We talk childhhod beginnings, school, Once Upon a Time in the Southwest (E9, Dyer's Lookout), Mind Control (8c, Olianna), Nightmayer (E8, Dinas Cromlech), not trying Indian Face (E9, Cloggy), The Big Issue (E9, Pembroke) and The Big Bang (9a, Pen Trwyn).

It's a long chat so I've split it in two. Part 2 to follow soon. 

Listen via the player below. Better again go via iTunes, or to Stitcher Radio, or on Spotify. If you like the podcast, then subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

Cheers all,

Niall x.

JCPC 066 Paul Dunlop Part 2

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Second instalment of Paul Dunlop chat yarning on about Germany, Elbesandstein, ghosts, being good at climbing, youth and travelling. This is a load of fun. Part 1 is here.

Listen via the player below. Better again go via iTunes, or to Stitcher Radio, or on Spotify. If you like the podcast, I'd really appreciate it if you would subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

Please share around if you like it, perhaps tell me what you think.

Cheers all,

Niall x.

JCPC 065 Paul Dunlop Part 1

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My oldest and dearest friend Paul Dunlop and me having a great, deep chat. He and me and him started climbing together in about 1986 and we catch up on that a bit. We also get deep into some experiences Paul had in his teens. Heavy stuff, yet a lot of laughs along the way.

Listen via the player below. Better again go via iTunes, or to Stitcher Radio, or on Spotify. If you like the podcast, I'd really appreciate it if you would subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

Please share around if you like it, perhaps tell me what you think.

Cheers all,

Niall x

JCPC 064 Eddie Fowke

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The Olympics are a-coming. Eddie Fowke has been on the scene for years, photographing the action and watching from the sidelines. He knows what's happening; I didn't. Eddie explains the whole shit show to me. Tune in, and you'll learn a lot.

Listen via the player below. Better again go via iTunes, or to Stitcher Radio, or on Spotify. If you like the podcast, I'd really appreciate it if you would subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

Please share around if you like it, perhaps tell me what you think.

Cheers all,

Niall x

JCPC 063 Chris Schulte

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Hoots mon! Chris Schulte, major US bouldering prospector and arête crusher, is one of the defining spirits of Jam Crack. You'll know his voice from great story episodes. I finally catch him in person.

Listen via the player below. Better again go via iTunes, or to Stitcher Radio, or on Spotify. If you like the podcast, I'd really appreciate it if you would subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

Please share around if you like it, perhaps tell me what you think.

Cheers all,

Niall x

JCPC 062 Moon, Megos, Yuji, Lucille and Me

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You lucky devils! This week I read my own story about a trip to Kalymnos where I get to hang out with some famous climbers: Ben Moon, Yuji Hirayama, Alex Megos, Jibe Tribout, Boone Speed, and some famous climbers I hadn't heard of before.

Listen via the player below. Better again go via iTunes, or to Stitcher Radio, or on Spotify. If you like the podcast, I'd really appreciate it if you would subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

Please share around if you like it, perhaps tell me what you think.

Cheers all,

Niall x


JCPC 061 Yuji Hirayama

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Warning! A-Lister!

Top climber, top guy, Japan’s Yuji Hirayama has pushed many of climbing’s boundaries in his day. An early master of comps in the 1990s, first on-sight of 8c, The Nose speed record, and still climbing at a high level today. Hear his vibe.

Warning! I seemed to chat on for ages at the start. Be prepared to skip the first twenty-five or so minutes for the good bit.

Listen via the player below. Better again go via iTunes, or to Stitcher Radio, or on Spotify. If you like the podcast, I'd really appreciate it if you would subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

Please share around if you like it, perhaps tell me what you think.

Cheers all,

Niall x

JCPC 060 Angus Kille reads Indian Face

Photo: Nick Dixon

Photo: Nick Dixon

Angus Kille reads his account of climbing Indian Face, Britain’s first E9, and one of the most feared leads in the country. Originally published on Andrew Bisharat’s Evening Sends website.

Listen via the player below. Better again go via iTunes, or to Stitcher Radio, or on Spotify. If you like the podcast, I'd really appreciate it if you would subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

Please share around if you like it, perhaps tell me what you think.

Cheers all,

Niall x


JCPC 059 Hannah Baldwin, Be Fuller

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Hannah Baldwin is one of the three British paraclimbers to win gold at the World Championships in Innsbruck this year. In this chat we talk about about one-legged climbing, Crohn's disease, climbing hard, dreaming 8a and her relationship with her coach, Be Fuller.

Listen via the player below. Better again go via iTunes, or to Stitcher Radio, or on Spotify. If you like the podcast, I'd really appreciate it if you would subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

Please share around if you like it, perhaps tell me what you think.

Cheers all,

Niall x


JCPC 058 Ned Feehally

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He’s one half of the Beastmaker team, and one of the strongest climbers in the UK. Ned Feehally has added some of the country’s hardest problems, bouldered up to Font 8C, done well in comps and pushed the art of highball bouldering as far as it’s been pushed. Yet he remains backstage and keeps his climbing to himself. Let’s hear what this dark horse has to say.

Listen via the player below. Better again go via iTunes, or to Stitcher Radio, or on Spotify. If you like the podcast, I'd really appreciate it if you would subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

Please share around if you like it, perhaps tell me what you think.

Cheers all,

Niall x


JCPC 057 Shirin Shabestari

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Brothers and sisters,.

I first met Shirin about three years ago at the premiere of her film, Damavand, where she recalled childhood exploits into her native Iranian mountains with her father, and how much their freedom meant to a young girl in that culture. It showed her return in later life to climb Iran’s highest peak, Damavand. We chat around these subjects and how this one climb changed the direction of Shirin’s life, and how climbing sustained her through the results of this change in direction..

Listen via the player below. Better again go via iTunes, or to Stitcher Radio, or on Spotify. If you like the podcast, I'd really appreciate it if you would subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

Please share around if you like it, perhaps tell me what you think.

Cheers all,

Niall x

JCPC 055 Gary Gibson

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O come all ye faithful.

Britain's most prolific new router, most dedicated bolter and most obsessive Stranglers fan talks about life and near death. Gary has added more new routes than you and me put together, that’s for sure. Unless you have added 4,683 cos I’ve only done 17.

Listen via the player below. Better again go via iTunes, or to Stitcher Radio, or on Spotify. If you like the podcast, I'd really appreciate it if you would subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

Please share around if you like it, perhaps tell me what you think.

Cheers all,

Niall x

JCPC 054 Johnny Dawes and Nick Dixon

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Yo Crackpots,

Dream episode for me. Nick Dixon and Johnny Dawes snuggle up under Nesscliffe’s bulk to talk Cloggy, Gogarts, Morphic resonance and above all, have a crack. This is Jam Crack gold.

Listen via the player below. Better again go via iTunes, or to Stitcher Radio, or on Spotify. If you like the podcast, I'd really appreciate it if you would subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

Please share around if you like it, perhaps tell me what you think.

Cheers all,

Niall x


JCPC 053 Ben Silvestre reads Gogarth

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Ben Silvestre reads Student of Sand about doing Ludwig, E6 6b, on Gogarth's Yellow Wall, and a poem about living in a van.

Listen via the player below. Better again go via iTunes, or to Stitcher Radio, or on Spotify. If you like the podcast, I'd really appreciate it if you would subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

Please share around if you like it, perhaps tell me what you think.

Cheers all,

Niall x

JCPC 052 Michael Duffy

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Heads up, heads.

In our continuing Irish theme, this week Jam Crack Climbing Podcast brings you Michael Duffy. Michael has been a cornerstone of the Irish climbing scene since he was 14 years old and he continues to thrive and develop. In the later years he has pushed bouldering in Ireland, nudging standards towards the Font 8C mark. Legend. In this hour we chat about entering the scene, influences, bouldering, sport climbing and, of course, soul. It’s mega, I swear.

Listen via the player below. Better again go via iTunes, or to Stitcher Radio, or on Spotify. If you like the podcast, I'd really appreciate it if you would subscribe via one of these services. That way the shows will download automatically.

Please share around if you like it, perhaps tell me what you think.

Cheers all,

Niall x